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I contstantly hear about "clearance issues" when going from cantis to v-brakes.  I'm not really sure what that is referring too.  Is this clearance between the pad and rim?  Is is clearance when they're opened up for changing wheels?  Is it a worry that the brake arms/cable/noodle provide a smaller opening and therefore may catch more mud?

 

As I see it, the distance between the pad and the rim wouldn't be all that different between brake styles, unless I'm missing something about pull ratios, where perhaps the pads on a v-brake have to be set up closer to the rim than cantis to properly work.

 

As far as changing wheels, I already run long pads on my Paul cantis, so when I open them, they hit the frame - I assume it's the same with most v-brakes - so no difference there.

 

And as far as the arm clearance, etc - it wouldn't seem like the "opening" of the brake would be any more restrictive that the area between the seatstays and the bridge between them, if that make sense.  And there's definately less clearance around the fork itself than the front brake. 

 

So... talk me out of v-brakes.  I've been seriously considering them to get rid of shudder (yes, I've tried all the usual remedies, which work for a while, but then it comes back as the pads wear in).  I just want to know if the "downfalls" of v-brakes are real, or exagerrated.  Also, which models work best with the previous generation Shimano levers (7800, 6600, 5600)?

 

Thanks!

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This last season I ran on the front Tektro rx5 W/ adjustable noodle and kept the canti on the rear. i will never go back to canti up front. feels like a have a whole new bike. add some kool stop salmon pads to really make the difference. all can be done for about $25

Eff it...I am going with the TRP's CX 8.4's Power baby, power!

LOL... you won't regret them. I seriously love mine especially with the fact that they ahve been able to stop me from getting hit. Freakin' STELLAR!!

Been seriously impressed with mine. Now I just need to get a rear wheel that will stay tru and I would be a seriously happy camper!!

I ran Paul Neo's last season and they ran great only giving my a little shutter in the heavy mud last NCCX weekend of racing....I switched to TRP 8.4's running full SRAM groupo and have DRASTICALLY increased my braking response with NO shutter. I'm running a Whiskey Tapered steerer full carbon fork and a ti frame and have alot more confidence whe braking at speed and have done alot of roadracing this spring on the new setup, even hit 50+mph in Tour of the Battenkill this year hot on the brakes at the bottom hairpin turn with no worries......bottom line DO IT you won't regret it :o)

Like you, I ran the Paul Neo Retro's for 2 seasons, and had to toe them in drastically to stop stutter.  They just weren't that powerful, even with good pads and different straddle cable setups.

 

I just set up the Tektro RX5's yesterday (similar in build and weight to the 8.4's with an 85mm arm, though I'm sure the finish isn't as nice.)  I'm using the previous generation Ultegra 6600 10 speed levers, so the pull is about the same as SRAM/Campy.  Wow - tons of stopping power!  Tons!  Not a lot of space between the pads and rims, but until the conditions are nasty enough that it ruins a race for me, I'll use em.

 

One trick I did to make wheel changes easier is to file down about 5mm off of the part of the noodle that notches inside the brake caliper arm swivel.  That way I don't have to squeeze the arms so far to pop the noodle out.  Yes, I have barrel adjusters too, but now I can use them for their intended purpose - to adjust cable pull - rather than having to wind them all of the way out just to change a wheel.  I also moved the thick conical washers from the outside of the brake pad post to the inside, and moved the slimmer ones to the outside.  This gave me a little more clearance between the brake arm and the tire wall. 

 

 

 

Adam - I'm going to have to borrow your trick on filing down the noodle. Just mounted the Tektro 926AL's on the monster and I can't get the dang brake arms close enough to release the brakes short of deflating the tires and dropping them out.

Either that or I'll run a Travel Agent. I am sort of bummed that I have to run these mini-V's so close to the rim (or my SRAM shifter paddle starts to nick the bartape, regardless of how I angle the shifters). I am also bummed that due to the short height I can't run the monstercross tires (Panaracer FireCross 45's).

That said, damn do I like brakes that will stop you so well. I can carry a bit more speed up to the hairpins and still set myself up for decent exit speed. And on the MTB trails these help immensly. For switchbacks, rock gardens, unseen drop-offs and the like, these brakes are excellent. Didn't think I'd like the pad compound too much but it works better than I would have thought.

 

 

I too recently switched to TRP V brakes for stopping power.  excellent choice

After a couple months of using these and doing random rides (friend is training for the STP 200) and one pretty gnarly climb (well atleast for me) with a fast turn-around and decent I was able to hit 38mph and still stop myself enough without having to grab tons of brake. I definitely am loving these brakes, the RX5/926AL would have been a lot more cost effective solution for the commuter duty, but damn the bling looks good!! :)

Adam, I can't talk you out of V-Brakes because I changed my cantilevers about 1 month after I bought my bke.  I can endorse that the  TRP CX-9 V-Brakes can eliminate the shudder you've experienced.  Leonard Zinn had a great article on shudder and it really boils down to the cabling of a cantilever and fork flex. See the two links for details.

http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/09/news/cyclocross/technical-qa...

http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/01/news/cyclocross/lennard-zinn...

I have never had any problem with clearance or mud or pull pressure.  The TRP CX-9 will fix your problem and you will be happy to have brakes that modulate and work.

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