All Discussions Tagged 'DI2' - Cyclocross Magazine2024-03-29T04:37:59Zhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=DI2&feed=yes&xn_auth=noAsylum Meuse - Di2 Hack with Hydraulic Brakestag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2014-10-16:1198434:Topic:1588662014-10-16T21:29:14.265ZBrian Bresslerhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/BrianBressler
<p>I’m proudly racing this sub 16-lb Asylum Meuse and am even earning the occasional podium in the MFG series race and at STARCROSSED. I was reluctant to get disk brake bike as it would make my tubular wheel sets obsolete. However, after the first couple races this season, I’ve concluded the cost and weight of a disk brake bike is worth every dollar and every gram.</p>
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<p>I wanted hydraulics, 1x10 gearing but didn’t’ want to break the bank so I bought TRP’s Hylex single speed brakes,…</p>
<p>I’m proudly racing this sub 16-lb Asylum Meuse and am even earning the occasional podium in the MFG series race and at STARCROSSED. I was reluctant to get disk brake bike as it would make my tubular wheel sets obsolete. However, after the first couple races this season, I’ve concluded the cost and weight of a disk brake bike is worth every dollar and every gram.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I wanted hydraulics, 1x10 gearing but didn’t’ want to break the bank so I bought TRP’s Hylex single speed brakes, a used Ultegra DI2 right shifter and used DI2 rear derailleur. I removed the CAN module and switch from the DI2 shifter, soldered in my own remote switches and mounted them on each hood. The left button goes up the cassette, the right button goes down the cassette. I wrapped the Ultegra 10-speed chain around a 11-28 Dura-Ace cassette and an FSA narrow-wide 42t chainring. I’m running the chain tighter than typically recommended and still, I’ve dropped the chain in really fast and bumpy conditions. I have a K-Edge keeper on its way now. I picked up the S-Works BB30 cranks (with worn out chainrings) on e-Bay for about $120. I wet sanded the Specialized graphics off and installed them in Wheels MFG bearings with eggbeaters pedals (also slightly used on e-Bay). </p>
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<p>Cyclocross is hard on wheels and rim brakes are especially hard on carbon wheels with mud and grit wearing down the brake tracks. I’ve used generic carbon tubulars for the last several years and get about two seasons on a set of rims before the brake tracks are worn out. I’m experimenting with a set of 1,100-gram foam filled carbon tubulars from a US-based e-Bay seller (Cycling-go-go); he, of course, sources them from China. After four races and lots of practice hours, the wheels remain true and very fast. The wheels have Clement MXPs glued on with some <i>Belgium method</i> help from CX Tape. The pictures show a scandium seat post but I recently changed it to a Thompson to get a little more set-back. The Fizik saddle and FSA short and shallow bars are my favorites.</p>
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<p>The bike is stiff under power and explodes out of corners. There is some compliance designed into the frame and it does a good job smoothing out rough terrain. The bottom bracket is slightly higher than I’m used to, but the geometry is typical for today’s CX bikes. I’m delighted to find myself not hitting my pedals on the ground coming out of corners. I love the way this bike looks and I love how it helps me get through an hour in the paincave.</p>
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