All Discussions Tagged 'brake' - Cyclocross Magazine2024-03-29T06:14:05Zhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=brake&feed=yes&xn_auth=noWanted Shimano CX75 32 hole hubstag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2015-11-11:1198434:Topic:1671432015-11-11T07:11:45.106ZLyndon Luhmannhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/LyndonLuhmann
<p>Hello, I'm in search of a pair of Shimano CX75 <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>32 hole</strong></span><strong> </strong>11 speed hubs. Shimano has quit making the CX75 hubs with 32 hole drilling, only 28 hole is now available. I have searched everywhere on the web including ebay with no luck. I even called Shimano themselves to ask where I could get a pair and they didn't know either. Shimano discontinued the 32 hole version only a few months ago. I can't believe no one in…</p>
<p>Hello, I'm in search of a pair of Shimano CX75 <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>32 hole</strong></span><strong> </strong>11 speed hubs. Shimano has quit making the CX75 hubs with 32 hole drilling, only 28 hole is now available. I have searched everywhere on the web including ebay with no luck. I even called Shimano themselves to ask where I could get a pair and they didn't know either. Shimano discontinued the 32 hole version only a few months ago. I can't believe no one in the world doesn't have a pair, do you? I will pay a premium for a new pair. I would even consider a used pair in very good condition. I weigh a lot thus the need for 32 hole drilling.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Contact me at: luhmann@earthlink.net</p> Which mini Vees?tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2015-10-22:1198434:Topic:1666002015-10-22T17:49:25.220ZAndrás Tóthhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/AndrasToth
<p>I always have problems with my TRP 8.4 CX brakes. They are real beauties, but the springs are crap, the rebuild kits are expensive... and can't get them in EU. I have a spare spring, but nor I and the LBS mechanic couldn't change it! So... the brakes are weak and the modulation isn't the best at the moment.</p>
<p></p>
<p>What's your opinion, experience about Shimano's new mini V brakes? Or... which brakes do you suggest?</p>
<p>I always have problems with my TRP 8.4 CX brakes. They are real beauties, but the springs are crap, the rebuild kits are expensive... and can't get them in EU. I have a spare spring, but nor I and the LBS mechanic couldn't change it! So... the brakes are weak and the modulation isn't the best at the moment.</p>
<p></p>
<p>What's your opinion, experience about Shimano's new mini V brakes? Or... which brakes do you suggest?</p> Asylum Meuse - Di2 Hack with Hydraulic Brakestag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2014-10-16:1198434:Topic:1588662014-10-16T21:29:14.265ZBrian Bresslerhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/BrianBressler
<p>I’m proudly racing this sub 16-lb Asylum Meuse and am even earning the occasional podium in the MFG series race and at STARCROSSED. I was reluctant to get disk brake bike as it would make my tubular wheel sets obsolete. However, after the first couple races this season, I’ve concluded the cost and weight of a disk brake bike is worth every dollar and every gram.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I wanted hydraulics, 1x10 gearing but didn’t’ want to break the bank so I bought TRP’s Hylex single speed brakes,…</p>
<p>I’m proudly racing this sub 16-lb Asylum Meuse and am even earning the occasional podium in the MFG series race and at STARCROSSED. I was reluctant to get disk brake bike as it would make my tubular wheel sets obsolete. However, after the first couple races this season, I’ve concluded the cost and weight of a disk brake bike is worth every dollar and every gram.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I wanted hydraulics, 1x10 gearing but didn’t’ want to break the bank so I bought TRP’s Hylex single speed brakes, a used Ultegra DI2 right shifter and used DI2 rear derailleur. I removed the CAN module and switch from the DI2 shifter, soldered in my own remote switches and mounted them on each hood. The left button goes up the cassette, the right button goes down the cassette. I wrapped the Ultegra 10-speed chain around a 11-28 Dura-Ace cassette and an FSA narrow-wide 42t chainring. I’m running the chain tighter than typically recommended and still, I’ve dropped the chain in really fast and bumpy conditions. I have a K-Edge keeper on its way now. I picked up the S-Works BB30 cranks (with worn out chainrings) on e-Bay for about $120. I wet sanded the Specialized graphics off and installed them in Wheels MFG bearings with eggbeaters pedals (also slightly used on e-Bay). </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cyclocross is hard on wheels and rim brakes are especially hard on carbon wheels with mud and grit wearing down the brake tracks. I’ve used generic carbon tubulars for the last several years and get about two seasons on a set of rims before the brake tracks are worn out. I’m experimenting with a set of 1,100-gram foam filled carbon tubulars from a US-based e-Bay seller (Cycling-go-go); he, of course, sources them from China. After four races and lots of practice hours, the wheels remain true and very fast. The wheels have Clement MXPs glued on with some <i>Belgium method</i> help from CX Tape. The pictures show a scandium seat post but I recently changed it to a Thompson to get a little more set-back. The Fizik saddle and FSA short and shallow bars are my favorites.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The bike is stiff under power and explodes out of corners. There is some compliance designed into the frame and it does a good job smoothing out rough terrain. The bottom bracket is slightly higher than I’m used to, but the geometry is typical for today’s CX bikes. I’m delighted to find myself not hitting my pedals on the ground coming out of corners. I love the way this bike looks and I love how it helps me get through an hour in the paincave.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058937569?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058937569?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058937890?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058937890?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938206?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938206?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938078?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938078?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938472?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938472?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938637?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938637?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938728?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938728?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938877?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058938877?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058939307?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058939307?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058939445?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058939445?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058939825?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2058939825?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p> WTB - HED Ardennes tubulars - shimano preferablytag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2014-01-07:1198434:Topic:1515372014-01-07T20:59:52.023ZGary Underdahlhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/GaryUnderdahl
<p>Looking for HED Ardennes tubular wheels - rim brake. Shimano preferred. </p>
<p></p>
<p>The CX season is almost over so let me know whatcha got.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you.</p>
<p></p>
<p>gunderdahl (at) gmail (dot) com</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>Looking for HED Ardennes tubular wheels - rim brake. Shimano preferred. </p>
<p></p>
<p>The CX season is almost over so let me know whatcha got.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you.</p>
<p></p>
<p>gunderdahl (at) gmail (dot) com</p>
<p></p>
<p></p> End of Season Sale - now w/Picstag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-11:1198434:Topic:1508932013-12-11T00:55:20.866ZFrankncrosshttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/Frankncross
<p>Pics of most here - <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5924939019500203697">https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5924939019500203697</a></p>
<p>Some here too</p>
<p><a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5922360398617738145">https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5922360398617738145</a></p>
<p><strong>K-edge Cross Single Chain Catcher</strong> - 34.9 diameter. Mounted, ridden once.…</p>
<p>Pics of most here - <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5924939019500203697">https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5924939019500203697</a></p>
<p>Some here too</p>
<p><a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5922360398617738145">https://plus.google.com/photos/101308875766419975171/albums/5922360398617738145</a></p>
<p><strong>K-edge Cross Single Chain Catcher</strong> - 34.9 diameter. Mounted, ridden once. $30.</p>
<p><strong>Disc Brake wheelset:</strong> Carver c50, 10sp - 20/24h 50mm deep carbon rims, Novatec hubs, 135mm spacing rear, 6-bolt disc mounts, black spokes, white hubs, skewers included. Only used this season, <6 races. $450.</p>
<p><strong>Velocity Major Tom Comp disc wheelsets:</strong> two (2) wheelsets, both 24/24 double butted DT spokes, 2x lacing, 100/135mm axles, 6-bolt disc mounts, both standard QRs. Both are convertible to thru axle, front already includes hardware for same. Light, durable wheels. $375 ea.</p>
<p><strong>Frameset - 2012 53cm Major Jake:</strong> F/F, BB, Cane Creek 110 Headset - $600 raced two seasons. One season primary bike, one season pit bike. Full carbon sweetness. Canti. See geometry here - <a href="http://2k12.konaworld.com/cx.cfm?content=major_jake">http://2k12.konaworld.com/cx.cfm?content=major_jake</a></p>
<p><strong>Coming soon:</strong> more 160mm rotors, powertap head, powertap wheel (wired), another set of Red shifters, Specialized S-works road shoes, and more.</p>
<p><strong>Shipping and Returns</strong><br/> Buyer pays shipping unless noted in listing. I'm happy to answer whatever questions you may have and intend to post more pics etc. I'm going to do everything I can in advance of the sale to answer your questions and make sure that you're comfortable and happy with your purchase, but I'm not interested in returns.<br/> <br/> Thanks for looking, and drop me a line with any questions. My job dictates that my response time is more likely to be on a 2-8 hour schedule rather than a 2 minute one. Thanks!</p> Reverse brake lever setup on Ridley X Firetag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-09-15:1198434:Topic:1474862013-09-15T20:23:52.882ZNathan Masekhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/NathanMasek
Hey guys, I'm curious on the best setup for reverse brake levers on the Ridley X Fire. What are you guys doing, especially with the rear cable routing? I'm not worried about the front, it's the rear brake and the internal cable inside the top-tube on the left side of it and I don't want the cable radius to the lever on he left to be too tight.<br />
<br />
What has everyone else done?<br />
<br />
thx,<br />
Nathan
Hey guys, I'm curious on the best setup for reverse brake levers on the Ridley X Fire. What are you guys doing, especially with the rear cable routing? I'm not worried about the front, it's the rear brake and the internal cable inside the top-tube on the left side of it and I don't want the cable radius to the lever on he left to be too tight.<br />
<br />
What has everyone else done?<br />
<br />
thx,<br />
Nathan Brakingtag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2011-01-12:1198434:Topic:805292011-01-12T13:52:56.240ZAzarashiinuhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/EricSeale
<p>I started cross this year and can honestly admit that I am completely hooked (the wife is just so happy). I have a couple of questions regarding braking.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I understand the use of canti's and can certainly see the future value of going to disc brakes. Why has no one used V-brakes? They were the progression in the 90's for MTB.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Also, I ride a '11 Cannondale CAADX w/105. I have been reminded of one of the other issues of canti's over V from my days of downhilling…</p>
<p>I started cross this year and can honestly admit that I am completely hooked (the wife is just so happy). I have a couple of questions regarding braking.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I understand the use of canti's and can certainly see the future value of going to disc brakes. Why has no one used V-brakes? They were the progression in the 90's for MTB.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Also, I ride a '11 Cannondale CAADX w/105. I have been reminded of one of the other issues of canti's over V from my days of downhilling - getting tires in and out of the fork when inflated as we had to run oversized as my days were pre-suspension. At this point, I have two sets of wheels that I have to install with the front tire uninflated. Obviously, in a race, this all but ensures a DNF, even if I were to flat at the pits. Is there a set up trick I am missinig that enables the front cantis to open more? The brake pad is catching on the inside of the fork and not allowing it to expand any further.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Advice time: As I said, I am a noob, slow and having tons of fun. I ran some CX4 and a couple of Master's 35s this year. The Masters is way to fast for me to even think of trying to do anything more than finish a race on the lead lap. The bonus is that I get an extra 15 minutes on course by running it which helps justify the fact I am driving 1.5 hours plus for almost all races. So, I am thinking I may run single speed and then cx4 and get in two 30 minute races for next year. I would love to hear advice on single speed components as I would probably build my own. Wheels, hubs (flip flop?), brakes, frames, frame materials for single speed etc.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Eric</p> MORE COWBELL, LESS BRAKE: Things I'm learning... things I have yet to learntag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2010-11-09:1198434:Topic:730942010-11-09T00:51:12.654ZJ.D. Kimplehttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/JDKimple423
<p>As this is my first full season of 'cross there's a lot I've been trying to absorb and/or learn. Here's roughly where I am at:</p>
<p> </p>
<p>1) <strong>More cowbell, less brake:</strong> I have a habit of trying to go "deep" into a corner (those familiar with auto racing probably get where I'm coming from), brake, and then have to jump on the pedals to get going. Watching others who are kicking my butt shows that they let off a bit sooner but roll through the corner with no brake, or very…</p>
<p>As this is my first full season of 'cross there's a lot I've been trying to absorb and/or learn. Here's roughly where I am at:</p>
<p> </p>
<p>1) <strong>More cowbell, less brake:</strong> I have a habit of trying to go "deep" into a corner (those familiar with auto racing probably get where I'm coming from), brake, and then have to jump on the pedals to get going. Watching others who are kicking my butt shows that they let off a bit sooner but roll through the corner with no brake, or very little. Have to work on that</p>
<p> </p>
<p>2) <strong>Less REAR brake:</strong> Ugh. Least weekend I was in second after the first hairpin, down a short fast chute and into the left 180. I grabbed the rear brake and promptly hit the deck, sliding in front of most of the C field. Not a good place to be. I've really had to work on relying more on just the front brake.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>3) <strong>You can take most corners faster than you thought:</strong> If there is some grass, vegetation, or about anything other than loose dirt or stone I'm finding I can really corner faster than I thought possible. Last race I went throught the C race and halfway though the B race before I realized I didn't have to swing so wide for a Right to Left set of 90 degree turns.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>4) <strong>Look where you want to be, not where you're going:</strong> I know, I know. I keep telling this to my teenage boys as they are driving. I should know this. But on the bicycle (not so much on the motorcycle) I have a nasty habit of looking down. "STOP" I tell myself! By looking further through the track I'm seeing that I can cut corners smoother, more arc and less "sharply". I can anticipate gearing better. Let the peripheral vision take care of the close up stuff. Why I have difficulty with this on the bicycle, I don't know.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>5) <strong>Gear big for rough ground</strong>: I took a page from the roadies who ride Paris-Roubaix here. When the ground is bumpy, uneven or rough go to a larger gear. You end up supporting more of your weight with your legs, allowing you to flex and absorb the bumps more. To me, it seems that I am going just as fast as if I'd try to spin like a roadie on the pavement. As well I find that if I spin on the rough stuff I end up bouncing all over the place.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>6) <strong>You can go faster for longer than I thought</strong>: Right after my first race this year I thought I was cooked. But after an hour or so afterwards I really felt like I left some cards on the table. So the next race I tried to remember that and went out harder; went for the holeshot (did really well until we got off the pavement and then I got shelled!), went after whoever was in front, tried to hold off who ever was behind and generally tried to keep a higher pace throughout the race. It worked - I moved up from mid pack (18th-20th) to just outside the top ten in the last two C races.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>7) <strong>You may be stronger than you thought</strong>: Last year I bough a cyclocross bike and promptly swapped out the rear cassette for something with a wider range, lower low gear because that is what I had been used to riding during my long wandering road rides with the steep climbs in them for years. This year I ended up having to get another bike for myself and didn't have the extra scratch to buy even more stuff to recreate my beloved wide and low range gearing so I ended up riding what came stock on that bike. Even up the long steep climbs near my house. And strike me dead if I didn't make it up those hills with the harder gearing. Wow. This was a major revelation to me. I do end up standing more but I'm no more or less tired when I get up the climbs. Which translates pretty well to the race course.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>8) <strong>Stuff to work on</strong>: <em>Off-camber stuff,</em> how to get through it without wiping out. Still trying to nail down tire pressure which I think has some to do with this but I think it's also a matter of picking the right lines and technique. <em>Speed</em> - I just need to work on being faster. Yeah, when I will work on it I don't know but it'd help! And <em>endurance</em> - pushing myself just a little harder for a little longer. Keeping a higher pace in general. Prior to racing this year, I've been happy to tool around at whatever speed. I don't recall what it's close to as I tossed the bike computer years ago. But now, I need to get the acceleration, cruising speed, recovery speed; all these I need to increase somehow.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Yes, I'm sure intervals and weight lifting and all those sorts of things would help. I'm working on intervals at the local super-secret dirt track that the ATV guys tear up (it's short, about a 2 minute lap depending on how I ride it) with one easy lap, one fast lap, and so on. Or I stitch together a series of steep hills nearby which seems to help some. But most of all, I have to get out there and DO IT.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>There is of course more I need to work on than I can identify. So if you race with me and want to point it out, by all means feel free!</p> Brake pads/blockstag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2009-12-16:1198434:Topic:491312009-12-16T20:53:21.972ZSteve Kirkhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/SteveKirk
I asked this on bike radar and didn't get a single response. Guess no-one racing cross reads that site....<br />
<br />
Need some new brake pads for my cross bike. I'm using post-mount Canti's. I've beenusing the SwissStop Canti Rat black (Aqua-stop?) pads so far this season and I quite like them.<br />
<br />
What I don't like is the rate at which I'm destroying them (the last set lasted 2 races and the two weeks training between) and at about £18 a set not ideal. Also not good during the race!<br />
<br />
I've heard the Green…
I asked this on bike radar and didn't get a single response. Guess no-one racing cross reads that site....<br />
<br />
Need some new brake pads for my cross bike. I'm using post-mount Canti's. I've beenusing the SwissStop Canti Rat black (Aqua-stop?) pads so far this season and I quite like them.<br />
<br />
What I don't like is the rate at which I'm destroying them (the last set lasted 2 races and the two weeks training between) and at about £18 a set not ideal. Also not good during the race!<br />
<br />
I've heard the Green pads are harder wearing. The SwissStop web site annoyingly gives little information other than they're the 'High-performance' compound. Can anyone shed a bit more light on this? How do they compare to the black pads?<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve Tektro CR720s - replacement padstag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2009-10-01:1198434:Topic:411182009-10-01T16:48:24.626ZBrandonhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/Brandon
I got these brakes last year. <a href="http://www.tektro.com/02products/11qb.php">http://www.tektro.com/02products/11qb.php</a><br />
<br />
They work well, but it's time to replace the pads - that, and I read that the stock pads on these are crep-tastic. A few folks believe that better pads will reduce the massive chatter I am experiencing as well.<br />
<br />
So, which do I use to replace? Peeps say Kool Stop salmon, but the threaded, or those that say Canti?…
I got these brakes last year. <a href="http://www.tektro.com/02products/11qb.php">http://www.tektro.com/02products/11qb.php</a><br />
<br />
They work well, but it's time to replace the pads - that, and I read that the stock pads on these are crep-tastic. A few folks believe that better pads will reduce the massive chatter I am experiencing as well.<br />
<br />
So, which do I use to replace? Peeps say Kool Stop salmon, but the threaded, or those that say Canti?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Threaded/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1254415333&sr=1-2">http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Threaded/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1254415333&sr=1-2</a><br />
<br />
Tnx.<br />
Bd