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Ever had fork chatter when braking? Figured out a way to fix it? I've found toe-in and pad material can usually fix it most of the time. But if you're still struggling with it, why not just return the damn fork (or bike)?

Check this out:

Since it won't be up there forever, here's the funny part: "All components are stock, but the original fork was warrantied by Trek because of a slight shudder, replaced with the same fork model."

You'd think Trek would just laugh.

Well, anyway, if you have super-secret techniques on eliminating chatter, or want to recommend a fork to get or avoid because of chatter, post it here.

I've found the Ritchey WCS and Easton EC90x both tend to have some, but it's mostly curable. I usually use the really grabby salmon pads though - and other pads have been more forgiving with chatter.

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First, sometimes fork chatter is caused by a headset that isnt installed correctly. So make sure the headset is installed well.

Second, make sure the pads arent crap.

Third, make sure the pads are toed in. You can toe in any pads, even Empella post style brake pads by bending the brake pad itself (not the post) with Vice Grips.

Lastly, dont believe the following statement: "X brand of brakes shutter more than Y brand." This isnt true. Usually, X is replaced with the word Avid and Y is represented by Pauls.

I had a bike setup with Avid's on an Alu fork and there was major shutter. While waiting for a commuter train (ie 15 mins) I pulled out my Allen wrench, toed in the front brakes, and the shutter was gone forever.

Most often, I imagine, people have bought stock bikes from the LBS that have Avids, they arent setup correctly and the shutter happens. Frustrated owners, then go online and read that Avid brakes are crap and always shutter and that they should upgrade to Paul. Then, the buy the Pauls and they set them up correctly and alas the shutter is gone. I have ridden Pauls, Avids and Empellas and I had no shutter. This is on steel, aluminum and carbon forks.
I've got an Empella carbon fork that shuddered like crazy. I toed in the pads pretty seriously (probably 3/16"), before resorting to shaving off the back third of the pad. Shudder gone!

But, I believe the Empella fork has a higher "resonance" than other forks, and I think shaving the pad is pretty drastic, especially for a 140-lb guy like me.
I just built up my new steed for the year and ended up with the same problem. (?) I tighten the last bolt do a once over pull her down from the stand to go on a shake down ride and thought my Winwood Dusty was gonna snap. Got home tore the brakes apart checked the headset about 14 times sanded the pads a little then a quick touch to the rim. All to no avail, next day at my shop and you thought I was giving out free bikes every tech rode it and finally we spent 2 hours on the phone to hear the dreaded words "SEND IT IN" so after less than 24hrs my beautiful ride is torn apart again waiting for Winwood to tell me what is wrong.
wow, that's an interesting story. surprised winwood thinks it's possible that something is wrong with the fork - you'd think either they'd blame it on something else, or seen enough complaints to think that all their forks are likely to do this.

just curious, what rim/brake/pad are you running? I do notice when running my old-skool matrix iso-c2 rims with their non-machine sidewalls, the braking contributes a lot more to fork shudder than the reflexes.
This build had a set of Neuvation M28's with about 50 miles on them and the brakes are Tektro CR720's with the stock pad, straight out of the box.
Well the verdict on the Winwood Dusty is in, just to be fair it was a very early serial number, upon inspection by the fine folks at Winwood they have decided to send me a new fork. They gave no reason as to why, just that after inspection they would be more than happy to replace it with new. So friday the new steed will be back on the road and not shamefully hanging in a dark shop corner.
cool, nice to hear about another company providing good service! do post back on whether that solved your problem.
They not only provided GREAT customer service, but corrected the problem. The new fork they sent had mild chatter and with a slight toe adjustment I can't get it to bump or move. It is great in the street and tomorrow it will get the full shake down ride.
hey there, did the new fork cure your problem?
It definitely reduced the problem with the new fork, it is rideable. I now have put 400 miles on I am fairly happy but would rather have no shudder. I am sure it is the length of cable from the hanger, but I think I am going to try an old set of XT V's just to make sure.
So, I read an interesting article on brake shudder. It is caused by the cable being hung from the top of the head tube. When you apply the brake the fork flexes backward causing the brake cable to tighten. This constant loosening and tightening of the cable, coupled with the fork flexing back and forth causes the dreaded shudder. If you can make it go away with pad adjustments, good for you. For me, the only real solution was to get the hanger off the head tube. I used a Problem Solvers Travel Agent and a set of V-Brakes. My shudder, which had almost caused me to wreck a couple of times, is completely gone and I can lay on the brake as hard as I want. I am using an Ouzo Cross, BTW. The V's work better anyway, IMO. Good luck.
I read this recently and it makes so much sense. I'm going to try out some mini-v. If those don't work, I might get a hanger that attaches to the hole in the fork, thereby eliminating the long tension on the cable. I'll let you know.


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