I have an opportunity to look at a used Roger. The bike now has an 8 speed internal hub. I have never encountered an internal hub. Has anyone had experience racing CX with an internal hub? What are the advantages/disadvantages?
I also have the opportunity to purchase the original single speed wheel so I could convert it back to a SS. What are the advantages/disadvantages SS vs. internal 8 speed hub for racing? The bike currently has a flat bar with the shifter on it. I would have to buy the shifter for the drop bar if I wanted the drops back on it.
Has anyone had or heard of any issues with the alignment of the disk calipers on the disk when the rear drive is adjusted for chain tension for SS?
Any feedback is welcomed!
What is is that appeals to you about this bike vs something more traditional like a Redline? Will you be able to test ride this bike?
Internally geared hubs are less effecient (roughly) than traditional gearing. So there will be some power loss. And of course if something goes wrong with it there won't be a quick fix. Typically they are very heavy.
SS will be ok. It will feel harder on some courses, you might be spun out on some courses. In mud you'll wish for an easier gear. On some courses it's an advantage.
The flat bars are the real deal killer, for me. It's very hard to carry and shoulder a bike with flat bars.
If there's some strong reason *you* want this bike that's fine. But the above are the questions I would want an answer to if you were a client asking me for advice.
I would take a look at it regardless. These frames are very nice and not produced anymore. A guy on my team just picked one up and its super cool. If you do not buy it please let me have the persons contact info I might pick it up if its the right size.
540.359.Five Four Four Eight
Since you are talking about an 8 speed internal with a road shifter option I'm assuming that you are referring to the Shimano Alfine 8 speed hub. Yes, they are heavy when compared to the SS option, but really only about two pounds +/-more when you compared it to a geared bike and everything that it replaces. Plus, and a big Plus at that, everything's internal, so the normal demons of cyclocross (mud, water, sand, derailleur bending, etc) are all negated in one fell swoop; it's like eight single speeds all rolled into one! What could be better than that? Although, you must remember that they are bolt-on hubs only, so changing a wheel/tire mid race really isn't an option and as Chris said - when/if something does go wrong inside that little black box, you better have some serious mechanical aptitude to pull one of those babies apart.
Here's a nice write up about an Alfine 11 speed on a Mt bike
The rear disc tab on the Roger allows the caliper to adjust for wheel/rotor alignment and as Larry said, those are awesome bikes (internal hub or not) and if the prices is right, you're looking for a SS frame and it fits, you could do a whole lot worse.
And it gets even better - It's Electric! Boogie Woogie Woogie!
Racing Cross on a SS bike is for masochists with beards, legs of steel and cool tats (they are the ones your mother warned you about). That a joke - sort of. SS racing is a whole other realm of CX misery; not only are you tired, cold, wet and suffering from a severe case of WTF, but add the fact that you will never be in the right gear. It's like fun - only different.
All excellent points and the SS masochist is appealing. Painful but fun when I am looking back at what I just did after the race is finished.
I do have a chance to ride this bike.
The original handlebars are gone and he only has a few sets of road bars to put on. I will have to compare the sizes with my current CX bike. They could very well be too narrow. I would have to buy brake levers as there is a flat bar on it and he does not have the original levers. The WTB rear wheel is worn out. The front is still there. He is willing to put on a set of Maddux 3.0 on the bike.
I am seriously considering purchasing it as SS in which the Maddux wheelset would have to go on, have him put on some drop bars (depending on the size). I would have an added expense of buying brake levers.
With all that being said, what would be the "out the door price?"
Its hard to price it without knowing what parts are on the bike... I would pay up to 450 for that frame/fork if I had the cash. Anywhere from 600 for a complete and up depending on the components. A guy on my team just paid around 900 for his.