I'm hoping someone out there who's solved their brake chatter problems can help me out.
I've got a 58cm frame (so long headtube) and chatter that won't go away. My current setup is Tektro Oryx brakes with road (short as opposed to longer MTB) brakepads, Easton EC90x fork, and Ambrosio rims (not machined). Got the chatters. Rear brakes work fantastically. My only solution so far is to (gasp! I know...) use some light oil on the front rim. Cuts down on power, but eliminates the chatter. Besides being mildly crazy, any thoughts? I used to race in the NE, and when the going got muddy, i.e. the rims got muddy, the chatter got better (and the braking worse obviously), so I figured why not just start out that way.
I've tried pretty much all combinations of these things: toe in, toe out, xtr MTB pads, ritchey mtb pads, Dura Ace road pads, Kona Project 2 steel fork, Shimano R550 wheel (machined rims), and still get the chatters. My fork, the Easton, doesn't have a bolt hole to mount a fork-mounted cable stop (grr) or I'd try that too.
Who's tall and got an Easton fork? What are you running that solves this problem?
Had enough chatter on my Giant TCX to scare the heck out of me.
Installed the little brake cable "Problem Solver" from Jenson USA and a set of old mountain bike Vee brakes......WOW.
No chatter and awesome stopping power. Nice firm feel as well. Do I want to go back.....not likely.
For what it's worth, I have the same fork but only a teeny tiny issue with chatter, but for me it's more of how the fork flexes under braking. The EC90X seems to have more of a snap than a smooth linear flex (like the steel IF fork I used to run). I have a 55cm Planet X with TRP's, Zipp Carbons with TRP's carbon pads. I wrote about my experience with the "chatter" on my blog. It's a tish long winded, but maybe there'll be an ah-ha moment for ya in there.
Here's an except-link to post below: " I think tire construction, the grippiness of brake pads, tire pressure, fork rake and even the hardness of the ground play an equal role. I would go even as far to assume a tubular with a soft cotton sidewall and latex inner tube (like a Challenge or Dugast), would cause more carbon fork snap than say a Tufo or Vittoria with a thicker sidewall and standard rubber inner tube."
Customer who rides a redline and my gf both had the same problem. Our shop mechanic tried a number of solutions from new wheels to new forks. Only solution that worked was to replace the brake with a different brand. Avid shorty 6 solved it both times
I have a Easton Fork and it seems to be a little better with the chatter problem than my Ritchey WCS. That said I've found that the culprit many times is some goo, glue, brake snot, or something sticky (you don't want to know) on the rim that "grabs" and starts the chattering. That said (I like saying "that said" today) I've also found that the only time brake chatter is bothersome is when I'm riding around need to brake hard or just a grab a handful to see if I have chatter. That said, I never brake hard in a cross race, unless somebody crashes in front of me, and hence (which is literally like another word for "that said") if I'm experiencing brake chatter while racing, I'm not riding efficiently and I'm being a complete idiot on my turn entries. Less brake, more flow, don't scrub off the speed, JUST GO! Try some mineral spirits on the rim with one of those little green dish scubber-thingies. That usually works. Oh, and stay off the brakes. That always works.
I recently trashed my training wheels, so I replaced the set. Immediately after putting on the new wheels, I noticed quite a bit of chatter right off the bat. I hadn't changed anything else in my setup, so that narrowed it down to wheels and brakes. Every set of wheels needs a different brake pad adjustment, and in some cases different pads altogether.
I would mess around with the positioning of the brake pads. I took me a few tries, but after messing with the pad position, I eliminated the chatter 100%. There can be many causes of chatter, but start with brakes, the easiest to eliminate. Good luck.
You might reduce your chatter with TRP EuroX brakes, but that's not because of sealed bearings (they don't have any) or sealed pivots. The bushings aren't really any different than most brakes. They might be a better fit on your bosses than the Shorty 4s, might not. They're still great brakes, but if you reduce your chatter, it's likely because the wide-profile shape simply has less leverage (and more clearance) than a low-profile model brake like the Shorty 4.
Someone suggested lubing the rim - I wouldn't recommend that for sure. Mix some oils with water and you'll have a really tough time slowing down for a bit.
Raising the straddle someone else suggested really does help - but it's for the same reason as switching to wide-profile brake - you're totally completely your mechanical advantage with a high straddle.
Be sure to see Issue 7's in-depth article on brakes, brake pads, and brake-setup. And we'll have more in Issue 8.
Also, as others have mentioned, clean rims help, toe-in helps, reducing brake play helps, and making sure the two brakes hit the rim at the same time is key.
First cross race went well, at least as far as the chatter problem is concerned. I opted for some Shimano 105 (non-cartridge) brake pads/studs on my Tektro Oryx brakes, and did a light steel wool job on the front rim, toed in the brakes, then applied a light coating of motor oil on it. (I get the name of toed in and out confused... but I put the trailing edge of the brake closer to the rim by about 1mm, so whichever that is). No chatter, but the course was uber-flat and fast, so there wasn't much reason to brake except lightly before turnarounds. Still chattered a little at low speeds on the road though. Out of town now so I can't mess with it further at the moment unfortunately.
For what it's worth, I finished mid-pack in my first B's race, so can't complain about that.