Buying advice - please weigh in!! - Cyclocross Magazine2024-03-29T00:32:11Zhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/forum/topics/buying-advice-please-weigh-in?commentId=1198434%3AComment%3A144523&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=no"The BB's though... not reall…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-07-24:1198434:Comment:1445232013-07-24T16:41:25.740ZJack Wolfhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/JackWolf
<p>"The BB's though... not really that good in my experience. I would go elsewhere for those."<br></br> Both have FSA BB30. Another reason why maybe it's not a slam dunk to go for "CDale's top of the line."</p>
<p>I have a third option which is to use some parts I have, including Rival shifters, Rival front and rear derailleurs, Rival rear cassette, carbon seatpost and carbon railed saddle, carbon stem and carbon handlebars (I don't race, so I don't fear using these) and build a bike. I would need…</p>
<p>"The BB's though... not really that good in my experience. I would go elsewhere for those."<br/> Both have FSA BB30. Another reason why maybe it's not a slam dunk to go for "CDale's top of the line."</p>
<p>I have a third option which is to use some parts I have, including Rival shifters, Rival front and rear derailleurs, Rival rear cassette, carbon seatpost and carbon railed saddle, carbon stem and carbon handlebars (I don't race, so I don't fear using these) and build a bike. I would need a CX frame/fork (I want the clearance for 32-35 mm tires) that takes discs, a wheelset, a crankset and BB, and I would get SRAM's new 10-speed compatible hydro disc brakes--I think they come with shifters, so I wouldn't make use of the Rival shifters I have).</p> Let me first qualify this by…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-07-24:1198434:Comment:1445792013-07-24T15:50:41.705ZBSUdudehttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/JustinSorber
<p>Let me first qualify this by saying I haven't ridden a cannondale CX bike and use campy on my bike.</p>
<p>Don't go for Hi-mod carbon. The advantage is minimal versus the additional cost.</p>
<p>I would go for force over red unless you are a real weight stickler. Everything I hear is that if you are blindfolded you won't be able to tell a performance difference between the red and force.</p>
<p>I'd give hydraulic brakes the advantage over mechanical for performance as long as they stay…</p>
<p>Let me first qualify this by saying I haven't ridden a cannondale CX bike and use campy on my bike.</p>
<p>Don't go for Hi-mod carbon. The advantage is minimal versus the additional cost.</p>
<p>I would go for force over red unless you are a real weight stickler. Everything I hear is that if you are blindfolded you won't be able to tell a performance difference between the red and force.</p>
<p>I'd give hydraulic brakes the advantage over mechanical for performance as long as they stay working. My philosophy is that I don't want to be the person to buy something in the first model year as it's entirely possible all the kinks haven't been worked out yet. That would go double for cyclocross equipment. I would choose something I know would work (BB7s have been around forever) and would be easy to work on and cheap by comparison to replace WHEN it breaks (its CX). With hydraulics you also have special shifter levers so if you trash a shifter it's going to be more expensive to replace than a regular one.</p>
<p>Hollowgram cranks definitely win. FSA is just plan lower quality here. In fact I'd put most any crankset on my bike (sram, campy, shimano..) before an FSA.</p>