I just installed one of the new PT cranksets yesterday. Beware you need a 14mm hex driver which most tool kits don't have! (I had to buy one). I am getting a look at the Campy CX alloy crank in a few days, I assume the assembly will be the same.
Note they are not self extracting and they are mounted on a splined taper - so once they are on they're not coming off till someone makes up a crank puller for these!
at interbike they told me it still had the one 112bcd bolt. was I given the wrong info? I could swear they said you can't just throw any 110bcd ring on (same issue with other campy compact cranks) but admitted that there are a few companies like TA that make rings for them.
if I'm wrong - let me know! I'd be psyched they embraced a standard.
It's that 5th one that's offset so I would remeasure that if I were you. In the entire history of Campy they've been proprietary, the CX Power Torque bottom bracket isn't even compatible with their other Power Torque bottom bracket so why in the world would they start making regular 110bcd now? If they were normal 110 then that would mean you could buy off the shelf chainrings for them and it would defeat Campys entire purpose to release cranks with CX size rings.
And why all the questions if these are or are not Campy 110 anyways? Are people planning on buying them and then immediately slapping some cheap 110 rings on there? Doesn't make sense. TA Specialties has been making the highest quality Campy CX rings for sometime now...
I'm still interested in the removal method on these. Campy makes special note in their last monthly newsletter that "no special tools required" for install and removal. By "special" do they mean something akin to a $200 chain tool or $165 for a tool to remove UT bearings? Everyone has a 14mm hex in their tool kit, right? Maybe the removal method will be a giant steel bolt with a large head and you'll just tap it with a hammer and knock the drive side arm through the bottom bracket just like a 48 spline BMX crankset.
The 'no special tool' in the instruction sheet is a standard gear puller and a bit of rag. The crank has a sort of 'flange' which the puller can pull against. Plus use one of the ISIS crank plugs (that some square taper crank removers come with) for it to push against.
The taper is fairly mild but not something you could hammer off I don't reckon (I'm not trying that anyway)
For installation I made my own 14mm hex driver tool out of a 14mm bolt and nut, went and bought and proper one yesterday. Under A$20.
Both 14mm driver and a gear puller are standard generic tools that any tool shop sells. Unlike, say a BB socket tool, or $200 chain tool etc that only a bike shop sells.... I know where I'd prefer to buy tools from, because without bicycle branding I know what's cheaper for the same quality!
I couldn't see any difference between the PT Centaur or PT CX BB cups and enclosed bearings, other than the CX version had white seals which had more flexible, and double lip seals. I reckon they are interchangeable. Don't confuse these with Ultra-Torque of course! Not compatible (you'd be missing a bearing for a start!)