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Few build questions: TRP Hylex? 1x10? Wheels?
This is kinda of a mish-mosh post of random thoughts.
I am going to build up a new cross bike (so go buy my old one in the classifieds) and will definitely be going disc. I will also go with a 1x10 setup, so my though it TRP Hylex hydraulic brakes with a barcon/bar end shifter. Should I go with a Shimano Shadow Plus rear derailleur (using a Microshift barcon) or will a non-clutch rear be ok? For people running 1x10 what is your gearing? Since this bike will also be ridden as a road bike at times I am thinking a 42 front with an 11-32 in the back. I can use one of my mtn bike wheelsets, Stan's Crest, with the Kenda Slant Six SCT 700x32 for racing, but for a road set I believe I will need to get a second set as Crest's cannot take the high pressure of road tires.
How many of you are still running bar end shifters?
Anyone using the Hylex brakes?
The last thing I need to figure out is a Niner RLT9 or a Surly Straggler? I know, completely opposite ends of the spectrum.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Mike Wood on
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I built something similar. Crux frame, Hylex brakes but single speed right now with 42T, Beer EBB. My wheels are Iron Cross 11spd compatible. My aim is to put a 6870 Di2 RD on there with a 11-34 (make a bigger hanger). I would buy a 6770 single rear shifter and extract the canbus circuit and use some climber shifters for a 1x11. I like the idea of being cable-free.
First up I love my Hylex brakes (140 rear, 160 front) although I did get some Swisstop organic pads to replace the red stock ones in the front. The hoods do feel big in your hands but I like them. I am used to SRAM Red which I think are large too though. Love TRP support.
Doing it mechanical with an XTR or SRAM wide would be an option too - but was thinking thumb shifter. Is a clutch needed for a 1x ? I think the limits of RDs don't take into consideration 1x setups so a longer hanger might work better than a longer cage perhaps?
Another goal is to build a hard-tail 29er where I could swap parts (wheels particularly) and maybe the RD. Then I could have a single-speed or 1x11 cross and XC MTB to extend the season.
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What kind of road riding are you going to be doing on it? 42x11 is a pretty fast gearing. I have a CX bike setup 1x10 with a 39T front and 13 smallest cog in the rear. Unless I was racing on the road (assuming gravel) I think 42x11 would be overkill 99% of the time unless you're in the P/1/2 cat...
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Permalink Reply by Paul on
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Just as a training bike in the summer when I will be racing XTERRA and off-road duathlons. I may go with a 40 tooth and an 11-28 too.
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Permalink Reply by Carlos Matutes on
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First off, I think that Wolf Tooth )and Absolute Black,) have had riders on 1x10 set ups report success with standard road derailleurs. The only exception would be in really muddy conditions, then they recommend a chain guide/catcher.
Second, there's no reason a barcon wouldn't be fine. They've definitely fallen out of favor, but I still see a few guys on them, including some pretty fast ones. That being said, I might email Retroshift about a timeline for their Hylex/Retroshift combo.
Finally, I think for all-around use, a 40t makes sense. with a short cage (non-Dyna-Sys) XT derailleur, you could use 11-28 for road and CX, and a 12-32 for trails.
Los
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Permalink Reply by Craig MacIntyre on
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Problems children :)
First, either a Wolf Tooth or Race Face WN are awesome and eliminate the majority of issues up front. However, on rough/bouncy courses with a medium to long cage derailleur you still have issues. The ideal setup is a derailleur with a clutch. The problem you have is that 10sp Shimano (MTB)is not compatible with 10speed Shimano Road. Since Shimano does not do a clutch in 9-speed, you HAVE to go 11 speed (I believe the pull ratio is close enough on the Dynasys stuff to 11 road), go SRAM or go Di2 - the Di2 derailleurs don't suffer the same chain slap bounce issues that the mech ones do.
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Di2 seems like a great way to go I think. I'd tried to research exactly what components are needed for a 1x10 but it's hard to pin down. Also thinking it's hard to buy a single rear brifter and extract the circuit board to use with remote (climber) buttons. Still to remain cable-less would be very cool. I hear the Di2 can stretch to 32-11 (in a 1x10 or 1x11).
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Hylex + retroshift
http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/10/25/hack-retroshift-x-trp-drop-bar-...
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If you don't want a clutch rear, this works. Especially if you don't mind a friction setup! I have seen a gripshift rigged as well ...
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It would be cool to try. Prolly right about the extra force of a clutch RD being too much for it.
Still thinking about Di2 for my Hylex:
RD - $220
sacrificial rear brifter ($120 ebay)
DIY buttons (~$20)
battery ($100 or $40 DIY)
cables ($30)
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Just to update, the build will be happening with a Niner RLT. If I sell just my cross frame the SRAM Force will be going on with Avid Mechanicals for now. If I sell the whole bike it will be barcon shifters and the Avids to start. My brother just got the Hylex for his Salsa Fargo and is very pleased with them, so that leans me in that direction for the future (I got the mechanicals from him for dirt cheap).
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