Few build questions: TRP Hylex? 1x10? Wheels? - Cyclocross Magazine2024-03-28T17:35:29Zhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/forum/topics/few-build-questions-trp-hylex-1x10-wheels?feed=yes&xn_auth=noI use a 6870 di2 rear on an 1…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-11:1198434:Comment:1511692013-12-11T23:14:42.364Zandrewhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/cyclocross
<p>I use a 6870 di2 rear on an 11-36t rear cassette, no issues. YMMV. </p>
<p>I use a 6870 di2 rear on an 11-36t rear cassette, no issues. YMMV. </p> Just to update, the build wil…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-11:1198434:Comment:1509952013-12-11T21:14:49.750ZPaulhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/Paul322
<p>Just to update, the build will be happening with a Niner RLT. If I sell just my cross frame the SRAM Force will be going on with Avid Mechanicals for now. If I sell the whole bike it will be barcon shifters and the Avids to start. My brother just got the Hylex for his Salsa Fargo and is very pleased with them, so that leans me in that direction for the future (I got the mechanicals from him for dirt cheap).</p>
<p>Just to update, the build will be happening with a Niner RLT. If I sell just my cross frame the SRAM Force will be going on with Avid Mechanicals for now. If I sell the whole bike it will be barcon shifters and the Avids to start. My brother just got the Hylex for his Salsa Fargo and is very pleased with them, so that leans me in that direction for the future (I got the mechanicals from him for dirt cheap).</p> It would be cool to try. Prol…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-11:1198434:Comment:1511632013-12-11T18:35:08.652ZMike Woodhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/MikeWood
<p>It would be cool to try. Prolly right about the extra force of a clutch RD being too much for it. </p>
<p>Still thinking about Di2 for my Hylex:</p>
<p>RD - $220</p>
<p>sacrificial rear brifter ($120 ebay)</p>
<p>DIY buttons (~$20)</p>
<p>battery ($100 or $40 DIY)</p>
<p>cables ($30) </p>
<p>It would be cool to try. Prolly right about the extra force of a clutch RD being too much for it. </p>
<p>Still thinking about Di2 for my Hylex:</p>
<p>RD - $220</p>
<p>sacrificial rear brifter ($120 ebay)</p>
<p>DIY buttons (~$20)</p>
<p>battery ($100 or $40 DIY)</p>
<p>cables ($30) </p> If you don't want a clutch re…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-11:1198434:Comment:1509072013-12-11T16:18:45.558ZCraig MacIntyrehttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/CraigMacIntyre
<p>If you don't want a clutch rear, this works. Especially if you don't mind a friction setup! I have seen a gripshift rigged as well ...</p>
<p>If you don't want a clutch rear, this works. Especially if you don't mind a friction setup! I have seen a gripshift rigged as well ...</p> Hylex + retroshift
http://ww…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-11:1198434:Comment:1509052013-12-11T16:09:06.241ZMike Woodhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/MikeWood
<p>Hylex + retroshift</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/10/25/hack-retroshift-x-trp-drop-bar-hydraulic-disc-brakes-w-friction-shifters/" target="_blank">http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/10/25/hack-retroshift-x-trp-drop-bar-hydraulic-disc-brakes-w-friction-shifters/</a></p>
<p>Hylex + retroshift</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/10/25/hack-retroshift-x-trp-drop-bar-hydraulic-disc-brakes-w-friction-shifters/" target="_blank">http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/10/25/hack-retroshift-x-trp-drop-bar-hydraulic-disc-brakes-w-friction-shifters/</a></p> Di2 not in my budget.tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-10:1198434:Comment:1508862013-12-10T21:33:42.192ZPaulhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/Paul322
<p>Di2 not in my budget.</p>
<p>Di2 not in my budget.</p> Di2 seems like a great way to…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-10:1198434:Comment:1511492013-12-10T18:04:11.241ZMike Woodhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/MikeWood
<p>Di2 seems like a great way to go I think. I'd tried to research exactly what components are needed for a 1x10 but it's hard to pin down. Also thinking it's hard to buy a single rear brifter and extract the circuit board to use with remote (climber) buttons. Still to remain cable-less would be very cool. I hear the Di2 can stretch to 32-11 (in a 1x10 or 1x11).</p>
<p>Di2 seems like a great way to go I think. I'd tried to research exactly what components are needed for a 1x10 but it's hard to pin down. Also thinking it's hard to buy a single rear brifter and extract the circuit board to use with remote (climber) buttons. Still to remain cable-less would be very cool. I hear the Di2 can stretch to 32-11 (in a 1x10 or 1x11).</p> Problems children :)
First, e…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-10:1198434:Comment:1508822013-12-10T17:22:44.799ZCraig MacIntyrehttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/CraigMacIntyre
<p>Problems children :)</p>
<p>First, either a Wolf Tooth or Race Face WN are awesome and eliminate the majority of issues up front. However, on rough/bouncy courses with a medium to long cage derailleur you still have issues. The ideal setup is a derailleur with a clutch. The problem you have is that 10sp Shimano (MTB)is not compatible with 10speed Shimano Road. Since Shimano does not do a clutch in 9-speed, you HAVE to go 11 speed (I believe the pull ratio is close enough on the Dynasys…</p>
<p>Problems children :)</p>
<p>First, either a Wolf Tooth or Race Face WN are awesome and eliminate the majority of issues up front. However, on rough/bouncy courses with a medium to long cage derailleur you still have issues. The ideal setup is a derailleur with a clutch. The problem you have is that 10sp Shimano (MTB)is not compatible with 10speed Shimano Road. Since Shimano does not do a clutch in 9-speed, you HAVE to go 11 speed (I believe the pull ratio is close enough on the Dynasys stuff to 11 road), go SRAM or go Di2 - the Di2 derailleurs don't suffer the same chain slap bounce issues that the mech ones do.</p>
<p></p> First off, I think that Wolf…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-12-09:1198434:Comment:1509712013-12-09T18:27:07.433ZCarlos Matuteshttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/CarlosMatutes
<p>First off, I think that Wolf Tooth )and Absolute Black,) have had riders on 1x10 set ups report success with standard road derailleurs. The only exception would be in really muddy conditions, then they recommend a chain guide/catcher.</p>
<p>Second, there's no reason a barcon wouldn't be fine. They've definitely fallen out of favor, but I still see a few guys on them, including some pretty fast ones. That being said, I might email…</p>
<p>First off, I think that Wolf Tooth )and Absolute Black,) have had riders on 1x10 set ups report success with standard road derailleurs. The only exception would be in really muddy conditions, then they recommend a chain guide/catcher.</p>
<p>Second, there's no reason a barcon wouldn't be fine. They've definitely fallen out of favor, but I still see a few guys on them, including some pretty fast ones. That being said, I might email <a href="http://www.retroshift.com/" target="_blank">Retroshift</a> about a timeline for their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=526937280747895&set=a.195151787259781.43080.182115921896701&type=1&relevant_count=1" target="_blank">Hylex/Retroshift combo.</a></p>
<p>Finally, I think for all-around use, a 40t makes sense. with a short cage (non-Dyna-Sys) XT derailleur, you could use 11-28 for road and CX, and a 12-32 for trails.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Los</p> Just as a training bike in th…tag:cowbell.cxmagazine.com,2013-11-20:1198434:Comment:1503082013-11-20T18:40:13.989ZPaulhttps://cowbell.cxmagazine.com/profile/Paul322
<p>Just as a training bike in the summer when I will be racing XTERRA and off-road duathlons. I may go with a 40 tooth and an 11-28 too.</p>
<p>Just as a training bike in the summer when I will be racing XTERRA and off-road duathlons. I may go with a 40 tooth and an 11-28 too.</p>