Hello! and bike sizing, pedal type, racing and maybe another general question or two....

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Permalink Reply by Kris Fleming on December 5, 2012 at 11:01am

Solid response Oliver.  I'd just add a few things.  Fitting = yes, but just having numbers does nothing for you, unless you find a bike that fits those exact outputs.  So, I'd suggest getting a fitting and then doing the research to understand how bike geometry works in the most basic terms.  Ultimately, what creates comfort/power/seamless interaction with a bike is how you sit on it (I know this seems overly simple), and one of the major factors there is what they call reach.  Basically the length from your seat tip to the center of where your handlebars meet the stem.  Reach is mostly a function of seat tube angle and effective top tube length.  Stem length is obviously a factor, but since it is a component you can swap out, let's table it for now.  So, understanding how seat tube angle and top tube length interact is a critical piece of the equation many fitters don't discuss, and basically allows you to take your "ideal" fit and extrapolate it to any frame you might come across.  The basic interaction is, for every degree of seat tube angle change, the top tube length moves ~1cm.  For example, I am a small guy, my "ideal" fit is a 75 deg. STA and 51.5cm top tube.  Compare that to a bike with a 75 deg. STA and a 53cm TT and I know I'll be stretched out another 2cm, as common wisdom says don't move the saddle to pedal dimensions, once those are determined.  Or a 73 deg. STA and a 53cm TT, which actually fits me really well, because the more slack angle pulls the reach back 2cm.  So it isn't just TT length alone.  And definitely not only based on seat tube length (nominal frame size).

 

Although a fit will go a long way to help you avoid unwise purchase decisions, the above understanding will take the fit output even further as you compare it against new and used frames on the market.

 

As for some of your other questions/comments.  You don't HAVE to race masters just because you are a certain age.  Racing as a straight up 4 will just pit you against a much wider age range.  No, not every frame "named" a 54cm will have the exact dimensions manufacturer to manufacturer.  Again, driving home my point above, as you will have to interpret geometry charts and apply them to real life.  Clip-in (actually called clipless, I know that is confusing) pedals are the standard, but really anything you can disengage from quickly will work.  I've seen flats, clips, clipless all at races.  Redline is a name very closely tied to CX.  Specialized less so until rather recently.  Most everyone have CX bikes now.  I'd say Redline, Cannondale, Kona, and Fuji are the names I see alot and who have been in the game of CX for awhile.  But there are plenty of quality options.

 

I'll shut up now.  It is a tremendous sport I fell in love with after my first race.  It is hard as hell, but over quickly and a whole lot of fun.

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Permalink Reply by Chris Gutzmer on December 5, 2012 at 11:54am

WOW! Thanks guys :) I think I will start with popping into a shop for a fitting on a bike I would be interested (probably a redline) in purchasing. I KIND OF understand your geometry lesson there.... kinda.... I will see if I can find more info there and learn about it. I am sure the person at the shop can help illuminate me too :)

 

So what is the diff between a clip and a clipless, gotta find out what spd is as well? Wiki here I come! I assume a flat is a plain old pedal

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