what 42T chainring for a single ring 10-speed CX?

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Permalink Reply by Ohio Farmer on August 4, 2011 at 6:13pm

I ran a 39 Thorne ring with a 11/27 and 11/25 all last season, 10sp.

The Thorne ring weighs only slightly more than a DA ring or a similar size sram ring, but it's solid, stiff and reliable.

I might buy a double Thorne set up for this season and go back to double up front.

I could easily hit just over 30 mph no problem with the 39 ring and 11 or 12.

Plenty for cx. You can find small washer spacers to get the chain alignment inside or outside of the crank spider.

BBG chain guard on the outside with a jumpstop inside, never dropped the chain, 15-20 cx races last year.

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Permalink Reply by cxchiva on August 5, 2011 at 4:24am

I don't know what people are trippin' on but 2 seasons ago I ran a 1x9 and had no issues, used a deda fang and salsa 42T ring w/ salsa crossing guard up front and the shifting was fine for all gears. Something that I read a while back was to shorten your chain as much as possible to avoid any chain craziness so that when you have the derailleur in a more relaxed position such as the 12 or 13 there is more tension. I did this and it worked well all season. Even with keepers and such, shit happens.

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Permalink Reply by Martin Turek on August 14, 2011 at 10:51am

OK, just tested the installed setup:

• Thorne Koksijde 42
• SRAM Force RD
• SRAM PG 1070 11-28
• K-Edge 44 Ring Guard
• K-Edge Cross Single Chain Catcher

All works superbly.  No rubbing against the chain guard. Precise shifting and smooth ops throughout 11-28.  Gearing choice OK (so far).  Damn, the 2012 X-Fire rides like a dream :-)

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Permalink Reply by Adam Holt on August 17, 2011 at 4:14pm

Glad to hear the setup works.  I've been running 1x9 for three seasons.  Two seasons with a chainguard and jump stop, and one with a Paul's.  All of them have worked fine, and if you take the time to set them up properly, there's no rubbing.  I also use the CX bike for some pretty hefty gravel road climbs, and haven't had any issues resulting from the cross-chaining, even under high torque.  I always run the chainring on the inside position of the crank.  I figure the time I'm really mashing is usually uphill, when I'm on the inside cogs, so I might as well have the better chainline on the inside.

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Permalink Reply by ChrisP on September 30, 2011 at 6:42pm

Martin, please please please tell me how you made this work.  I have the same bike and I'm trying to set up a single ring, I've struggled through every combo I could find and I can't get a chain catcher to be in the right spot with the flared seat tube on the Ridley.  I have a 40T Thorne Koksijde 110mm and a 44T ring guard.  The 40T chainring is set up in the inner ring position.  I can't get the K-edge to work because the non-flared portion of the seat tube is too high up.  A picture of your setup would be awesome.

Thanks,

Chris

 

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Permalink Reply by Martin Turek on September 30, 2011 at 6:47pm

Chris.  I was advised by the K-Edge guys to get the XL version of the chain catcher (just in a case) and so I did.  No problems installing it on the seat-tube of X-Fire.  BTW, my X-Fire is 50 cm (I ride road bike size 54cm).  maybe different sizes of X-Fires have differently flared seat tubes.

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Permalink Reply by Dirk Ericson on August 19, 2011 at 7:12pm

After you decided on the ring have you may want to consider these guys

http://www.bbgbashguard.com/index.html

http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/index.html

Save you a lot of $$$$

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Permalink Reply by Dirk Ericson on August 19, 2011 at 7:15pm

Ha some how I was missing the last two replies still some good info/sites for those looking to convert.

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